Fall 2011 Shows: More Art Deco and Snakeskin Than You Can Shake A Stick At

I was entering into the fashion doldrums after viewing the Fall 2011 collections. Most of the shows left me feeling bored or utterly disinterested. Either there no new ideas (the 70's again, lots of orange, minimalism to dull effect) OR the collection was too conceptual and not wearable. I love me a good concept or two, but...this is fashion. What good is your idea if one doesn't desire to wear it? After a bit of this I clicked on Hermes, and after that my faith in the power of fashion was restored. At Hermes, look after look sauntered down the catwalk and headed straight into my imagination. Although according to Style.com the inspirations were said to be Asian, with notions of travel, long robes, jade jewelry, etc, I couldn't see anything except 20's art deco from where I was sitting. This is an era I feel is finally getting it's longstanding due in fashion this season. Favorite looks from this collection posted below. All photos in this post from Style.com.

The biggest trends on runways this season were the masculine feminine mix, Asia, and snakeskin. Religious garb seems to have evolved from Celine'sminimalism, just ask Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, who referenced the priesthood in his collection, especially with his hats:

Alber Elbaz preps his models for the priesthood at Lanvin.

Ralph Lauren referenced China for his collection. He was one of many designers with references to Asia.

I loved Missoni's use of snakeskin.

Said or unsaid in the liner notes, the influence of 20's drop waist silhouettes and art deco style geometric prints, were everywhere:

Marni: No Waist, Geometric Print, don't tell me there is not a 20's influence.

Prada, of course, scored the fashion double whammy with Art Deco and snakeskin.

Versus by Versace proves it's still hip to be square

Also of interest is a return to a certain type of formality, pulled together, perfectly matched, prim and proper, suits. Maybe old lady, yes, but I love it. As far as new ideas, this old one seems as fresh to me as ideas go. Both Donna Karan with her Grace Kelly inspired collection and Jean Paul Gaultier totally seemed to understand this. I felt as if it was a reference to an old-fashioned sort of glam that I would like to see returned to fashion. How far can we take this era of casual dress, jeans and t-shirts?

It was go granny go at Jean Paul Gaultier.

And lets not forget Stella McCartney, who reinvents power dressing with her version of the masculine/feminine mix:

Stella truly gave us the bold shoulder. I love the strong but at the same time soft silhouettes she created.

All in all after show after show referencing the 1970's fashion we finally did find some fresh, new ideas in the mix. The trends I am most excited about are the snake, the geometric prints, and hints of Asia. I can't wait to see these items referenced for the market next season.

Paris Review: Spring 2010

Oh my...I just love Paris! The energy and the lights create the perfect background to all of the fashion that happens this time of year. This Paris fashion week was no exception to its predecessors, stunning from beginning to end. Here are some snippets of the trends I picked up on:

Color

Color on the runways seems to sway between minimal or absolutely exuberant. There were no in-betweens. For Color Anne Valérie Hash is a must see. She nailed it on the head, check it out:

What can I say? Wonderful! Amazing! Tres manifique! This was by far my favorite collection. It took Phoebe Philo's phenomenal collection for Celine from two seasons ago and brought it further into fashion's current direction. It was minimal, but soft, and large on skill and craftsmanship. It was above all things how a woman is going to want to look next season. Color and cut were both right. and were simply exquisite. Please note the color focused on what was aptly described as "make-up tones" on Style.com. Powder beige, blush, and slate completed a soft, focused palette.

Now, on the exuberant end (and in this case I don't mean just color), please note the following designers:

Manish Arora

Limi Feu

Zac Posen

I questioned not just the palettes these designer chose, but their overly exaggerated shapes. Seriously? I thought the 80's had come and gone. Twice now. Designers: y'all need to quit all your clowning around. No one wants to leave the house feeling like they're heading for the circus, and that's how these girls look. I was also disappointed in Limi Feu's decision to just create a strict palette of just black and whites. When they say "austerity measure" in Europe, I don't think anyone meant to take it quite that far. Otherwise from her a strong collection.

Print

Prints were almost non-existent on the French runways. The few exceptions included bits of graphic plaids here and there, and some snippets of snakeskin by Barbara Bui (the perfect evolution from last years leopard).

Overall I felt as if the cries for beauty and subtlety (Anne Valérie Hash, Barbara Bui) were right on the mark. The party dresses (from Zac Posen, Manish Arora) had a bit too much 80's attitude which has been done so many seasons now. They felt quite passé. Those looks need to walk right of that runway and walk far far away.